A door that won’t close, won’t latch, sags, or rubs against the frame is more than an annoyance — it can be a security problem, a draft issue, or a sign of deeper structural changes in your home. The good news: most door problems can be diagnosed and fixed with basic tools in under an hour. This guide covers every common door closing and alignment problem: why doors won’t close or latch, sagging door repair, misaligned and crooked door fixes, doors rubbing at the top, and how much professional door repair costs.
For door hinge adjustment techniques — tightening, bending, aligning, and leveling — see our article on how to adjust door hinges — tighten, bend, align, loosen, and level a door.
Diagnosing Why Your Door Won’t Close — Quick Diagnosis Chart
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause |
| Door drags on floor | Door has dropped (sagging hinges); floor covering added thickness |
| Door rubs at top corner | Top hinge is loose or sagging; door has swollen |
| Latch doesn’t reach strike plate | Door is sagging; strike plate misaligned; latch mechanism worn |
| Door springs open or closed | House out of level; hinge pins bent; hinges binding |
| Gap too large on one side | Frame has shifted; door has warped; hinges need shimming |
| Door clicks but won’t latch | Strike plate hole misaligned with latch bolt — needs filing or moving |
| Door hard to close in summer | Wood swelling from humidity — plane or sand the rubbing edge |
| Door hard to close in winter | House settling; condensation warping; different issue in cold vs warm seasons |
Door Not Closing Properly — The Most Common Causes
1. Loose or Worn Hinges
The most common reason a door won’t close properly is loose hinges — particularly the top hinge, which carries most of the door’s weight. As hinge screws loosen over years of use, the door drops slightly on the hinge side, misaligning it with the frame and causing it to rub or fail to latch. Check all hinges by wiggling the door gently — any visible movement at the hinge indicates looseness. Tighten all hinge screws first before diagnosing any other cause.
2. Wood Swelling
Wood doors expand when they absorb moisture and contract when they dry out. This is why doors often get harder to close in humid summer months and loosen up in dry winter months. If your door only has trouble closing seasonally, wood swelling is almost certainly the cause. The fix: either wait for the season to change (the door may correct itself), lightly sand or plane the rubbing edge during the sticky season, or address the humidity level in your home with a dehumidifier.
3. House Settling
All homes settle over time — the foundation compresses slightly, framing members shift, and door openings can go slightly out of square. This is normal in homes more than 10-15 years old and typically happens gradually. Signs that settling is the cause: multiple doors developing alignment issues at the same time, cracks appearing near door corners, or the door problem developing slowly over months rather than suddenly.
4. Strike Plate Misalignment
Even if the door closes perfectly, it may not latch if the strike plate (the metal plate on the door jamb that the latch bolt engages with) is misaligned with the latch. Look for scratch marks on the strike plate showing where the latch is actually hitting — if the marks are above, below, or to one side of the strike plate hole, the plate needs to be adjusted.
How to Fix a Door That Won’t Close
Step 1 — Tighten All Hinges
- Open the door and prop it at 90 degrees
- Tighten every screw in every hinge with a Phillips screwdriver
- For stripped screws, use the toothpick and wood glue method, or replace with longer 3-inch screws
- Test the door — tightening hinges alone fixes the majority of doors that won’t close
Step 2 — Check the Strike Plate
- Close the door slowly and watch where the latch bolt meets the strike plate
- If the latch hits above the strike plate hole: the door has dropped — tighten the top hinge or shim it; if that doesn’t help, file the top of the strike plate opening or move the plate down slightly
- If the latch hits below: the door is too high — tighten the bottom hinge or shim it
- If the latch hits the face of the strike plate (not going in the hole): the door is too far from the jamb — check hinge shimming
Step 3 — Adjust the Strike Plate
To adjust a strike plate: mark where the latch is hitting with lipstick or pencil, then file or chisel the strike plate opening in that direction. For a larger adjustment (more than 1/4 inch), remove the strike plate entirely, fill the old screw holes with toothpicks and glue, and reinstall in the correct position. Use a sharp chisel to deepen the strike plate mortise if moving it outward.
Step 4 — Plane or Sand a Swollen Door
If the door is rubbing because of wood swelling, identify the exact rubbing area (the paint or finish will be scraped where contact is happening). For rubbing at the top edge: remove the door from its hinges and plane or sand the top edge — remove 1-2mm at a time and test frequently. For rubbing on the latch side: you can often plane the edge without removing the door, using a hand plane or belt sander. After planing, seal the raw wood with primer or paint to reduce future moisture absorption.
How to Fix a Door That Won’t Latch
A door that closes but won’t latch — the latch bolt doesn’t catch in the strike plate — has one of three causes: the latch bolt is misaligned with the strike plate hole, the latch mechanism itself is worn or broken, or the door is not closing far enough to engage the latch.
Fix 1 — File the Strike Plate
If the latch is hitting the strike plate but not entering the hole cleanly: close the door as far as it will go, mark where the latch is touching with a pencil, then file the strike plate opening in that direction using a metal file. Remove material gradually — 1-2 passes at a time — and test frequently. This is the quickest fix for a latch that is close to engaging but not quite catching.
Fix 2 — Adjust the Strike Plate Position
If the latch is missing the strike plate by more than 1/4 inch, filing won’t be enough — move the strike plate. Remove the strike plate, fill the old screw holes with toothpicks and wood glue, let dry, then reinstall the strike plate in the corrected position. You may need to chisel a new mortise if moving the plate down or sideways.
Fix 3 — Replace the Latch Mechanism
If the latch bolt is not extending fully, sticking, or retracting slowly, the interior latch mechanism is worn. Remove the door handle set (typically two screws on the interior handle) and inspect the latch cartridge. Most residential latches are standard sizes — take the old latch to a hardware store to find a matching replacement. Installation is the reverse of removal: slide in the new latch cartridge, reattach handles, and test.
How to Fix a Door That Won’t Lock
A door that latches but won’t lock typically has a deadbolt alignment issue (the deadbolt does not extend cleanly into the strike plate hole) or a lock cylinder problem. For deadbolt misalignment: the fix is the same as latch misalignment — file the strike plate opening or move the strike plate. For a cylinder that does not turn smoothly: apply graphite lubricant (not WD-40, which attracts dirt) to the keyway. For a deadbolt that extends but the thumb-turn is stiff: the deadbolt mechanism may need replacement.
How to Fix a Sagging Door
A sagging door — one that droops on the latch side and drags on the floor or rubbing against the frame at the top — is one of the most common door problems in older homes. Sagging is almost always caused by loose or failing top hinges.
| Severity of Sag | Best Fix |
| Slight sag (1/4 inch or less) | Tighten top hinge screws; replace stripped screws with 3-inch versions |
| Moderate sag (1/4 to 1/2 inch) | Tighten top hinge + add corner bracket or hinge reinforcement plate |
| Significant sag (over 1/2 inch) | All of the above + adjust or replace bottom hinge; check frame integrity |
| Sag with frame damage | Professional repair required — frame may need replacement |
Repair Sagging Door — Step by Step
- Prop the door open at 90 degrees with a wedge or piece of wood under the free corner
- Examine the top hinge first — look for loose screws, screws spinning freely, or the hinge leaf pulling away from the frame
- Tighten all top hinge screws; replace stripped screws with 3-inch screws driven into the wall stud
- If the top hinge screws are solid but the door still sags, check the middle hinge (if three hinges) and the bottom hinge
- For persistent sagging after all hinges are tight: add a hinge reinforcement kit (available at hardware stores for around $10-15) — these use long bolts that reach through the door and frame to clamp the hinge in place
- Alternatively, add a third hinge in the middle of the door if only two are currently installed
Front Door Sagging — Special Considerations
Front doors sag more often than interior doors for several reasons: they are heavier (solid wood or fiberglass vs hollow core interior doors), they are used more frequently, and they are exposed to temperature and humidity extremes that expand and contract the wood frame. For a sagging front door: always use 3-inch screws in the top hinge; check the door weatherstripping for compression that might be adding resistance; and verify that the entry door threshold is level — a warped threshold can mimic hinge sagging.
How to Fix a Misaligned, Crooked, or Uneven Door
A door that is visibly crooked — wider gap on one side than the other, or gap that is larger at top than bottom — has a misalignment issue that goes beyond simple hinge looseness.
How to Fix a Crooked Door
- Measure the door gap on all sides with a tape measure — note where the gap is too large and where it is too small
- Tighten all hinge screws — this is still the first step even for obviously crooked doors
- Determine the direction of correction needed: if the door’s top is too close to the hinge side and the bottom is too far, the door needs to rotate counterclockwise; if the top leans away from the hinge side, it needs to rotate clockwise
- To rotate the door: loosen the screws on the hinge that needs to move; add a shim (cardboard strip) behind that hinge leaf to push it out; or deepen the mortise on the opposite hinge to pull it in
- Make small adjustments (1-2mm at a time) and test after each
Door Uneven at the Top — Rubbing at Top Corner
A door that rubs at the top corner (usually the latch side top corner) has almost certainly dropped due to a loose top hinge. The door’s weight has caused the top hinge side to sag, bringing the opposite corner (the top latch corner) up and into contact with the frame. Fix: tighten the top hinge screws or replace with 3-inch screws into the stud. If the hinge screws are already tight, the hinge may be shimmed too deep — adding a thin cardboard shim behind the top hinge leaf can raise the hinge side and bring the top latch corner back down.
How to Fix a Misaligned Exterior Door
Exterior door misalignment often has additional causes beyond loose hinges — the house may have settled more significantly, or moisture damage to the frame may be involved. Check the door frame with a level (both vertical sides and the top horizontal header) before attempting hinge adjustment. If the frame is out of square by more than 1/4 inch, simple hinge adjustment may not fix the problem completely. In significant settling cases, the door frame itself may need adjustment or replacement.
Door Slightly Open — Why Doors Won’t Stay Closed
A door that swings slightly open or closed on its own has a hinge or level problem:
- House is out of level: If the floor slopes toward or away from the door, gravity will pull the door in that direction — this is the most common cause of self-opening doors in older homes
- Hinge pins bent: A slightly bent hinge pin creates a bias that pulls the door in one direction — replace hinge pins or the entire hinge
- Hinges binding: If the hinge knuckles are misaligned with each other, they create tension that pushes the door open — aligning or adjusting the hinges corrects this
Bedroom Door Won’t Stay Closed — Quick Fixes
- Adjust the strike plate latch tension: Many door knobs have an adjustable latch tension — a small slot on the latch face allows tightening with a flathead screwdriver
- Add a door stop or latch guard: A simple floor-mounted door stop keeps the door from swinging
- Bend the top hinge slightly toward the door stop: This creates light tension that holds the door closed without requiring the latch to engage
How Much Does It Cost to Fix a Door?
| Door Repair Type | DIY Cost | Professional Cost |
| Tighten loose hinges | $0 (screwdriver) | $50-100 (handyman) |
| Replace stripped hinge screws | $2-5 (longer screws) | $75-150 |
| Adjust or replace strike plate | $5-15 (new plate) | $75-150 |
| Plane swollen door | $20-40 (plane or sander) | $100-200 |
| Repair sagging door (hinges) | $5-20 (screws + reinforcement) | $100-250 |
| Replace door latch mechanism | $15-40 (replacement latch) | $100-200 |
| Replace entire door | $200-800 (door only) | $400-1,500+ installed |
| Frame repair (settling/damage) | $50-200 (DIY materials) | $300-1,000+ |
Most door problems cost $0-20 to fix yourself with basic tools. The toothpick method, longer screws, and strike plate filing are free or nearly free. Professional handyman rates for door work typically run $75-150 per hour, with most simple fixes completed in under an hour. If a door requires frame replacement or the problem is related to significant house settling, costs rise substantially and a licensed contractor may be needed.
When to Call a Professional
- The door frame is visibly twisted, split, or rotted — frame damage requires carpentry skills and tools beyond basic DIY
- Multiple doors in the house are developing problems simultaneously — this may indicate significant foundation settling requiring a structural assessment
- The door is a fire-rated door in a commercial or multi-unit residential building — fire doors have specific code requirements and must be repaired by qualified contractors
- The door problem is related to a security concern — an exterior door that won’t lock properly should be prioritized and handled quickly, by a professional if needed
- After attempting the repairs in this guide, the door still won’t close or align properly — persistent problems may have causes (frame damage, foundation issues) beyond what DIY adjustment can address
For door hinge adjustment techniques including tightening, bending, aligning, loosening, and leveling, see our article on how to adjust door hinges — tighten, bend, align, loosen, and level a door.
For door repair supplies and hardware, see Home Depot — door hardware and repair supplies. For professional handyman services, see Angi — find local door repair professionals.
For more home improvement, lifestyle, and travel guides, see our lifestyle section on TheChronex.
Bottom Line
| First step always | Tighten all hinge screws — fixes the majority of door problems |
| Door won’t latch | File strike plate opening toward where latch is hitting; or move strike plate |
| Sagging door fix | Tighten/replace top hinge screws with 3-inch versions into wall stud |
| Door rubs at top corner | Tighten top hinge; or add cardboard shim behind top hinge leaf |
| Swollen door | Sand or plane the rubbing edge; seal raw wood after |
| Crooked door | Shim hinges or deepen mortise to rotate door into alignment |
| Door swings open | Bent hinge pin; house out of level; adjust hinge bend to create closing tension |
| DIY cost | $0-20 for most repairs; $5 for 3-inch screws fixes most problems |
| When to call pro | Frame damage, significant settling, fire-rated doors, persistent problems |
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won’t my door close properly?
The most common reasons a door won’t close properly are: loose hinge screws (the top hinge carries most door weight and loosens first — tighten all hinge screws as the first step); wood swelling from humidity (common in summer — the door expands and rubs); a misaligned strike plate (the latch bolt isn’t lining up with the hole); or house settling (gradual foundation movement shifts the door frame out of square). In most cases, tightening the hinge screws with a Phillips screwdriver — or replacing stripped screws with 3-inch versions that reach the wall stud — fixes the problem within 15 minutes.
How do I fix a sagging door?
To fix a sagging door: prop the door open at 90 degrees, then tighten all screws in the top hinge — this is the hinge that holds most of the door’s weight and is the primary cause of sagging. If screws are stripped (spinning freely), use the toothpick method: remove the screw, pack the hole with wood-glue-dipped toothpicks, let dry for an hour, then reinstall. For the most durable fix, replace the short hinge screws with 3-inch screws that reach through the door frame into the wall stud. If the door still sags after all hinges are secure, add a hinge reinforcement kit or a third middle hinge to distribute the weight.
How do I fix a door that won’t latch?
To fix a door that won’t latch: close the door slowly and observe where the latch bolt hits the strike plate — scratch marks on the strike plate show where the latch is actually making contact. If it’s hitting above the strike plate hole, file the top of the opening or move the strike plate down. If hitting below, file the bottom or move the plate up. If the latch is barely missing (less than 1/4 inch), filing the strike plate opening is quickest. For a larger misalignment, remove the strike plate, fill the old holes with toothpicks and glue, and reinstall in the correct position.
How much does professional door repair cost?
Professional door repair costs range from $75-250 for most common repairs (loose hinges, strike plate adjustment, planing a swollen door), charged at a handyman rate of $75-150 per hour. Most simple hinge and latch repairs are completed in under an hour. More involved repairs like frame adjustment cost $300-600, and full door replacement with installation runs $400-1,500+ depending on the door type and whether frame work is needed. Most door problems can be fixed as DIY repairs for $0-20 in materials — tightening hinge screws costs nothing, and replacing stripped screws with 3-inch versions costs about $3-5.