Three tools that look similar on the shelf, cost different amounts, and do very different jobs. Buying the wrong one for your project is a surprisingly common and expensive mistake. Here is a clear breakdown of what each does, when you need which, and where the rotary hammer fits into the picture — plus the best brands and models for 2026.
The Three (Actually Four) Tools Explained
| Tool | What It Does | Best For |
| Regular drill/driver | Rotational force only — turns a bit or driver tip | Wood screws, pilot holes, assembly; any job that does not involve masonry or concrete |
| Impact driver | Rotational force + rapid concussive impacts along the rotation axis | Driving long screws, lag bolts, and fasteners into wood or metal; NOT for drilling holes in masonry |
| Hammer drill | Rotational force + forward-backward percussive action along the drill axis | Drilling holes in brick, block, concrete, and stone; better than a regular drill for masonry |
| Rotary hammer (SDS) | Like a hammer drill but much more powerful; SDS chuck locks bits in place; true impact energy measured in joules | Heavy-duty masonry drilling; large diameter holes; anchor installation; professionals and serious DIY |
What Is a Regular Drill?
A regular drill — properly called a drill/driver — produces pure rotational force. The motor spins the chuck, the chuck turns the bit. That’s it. It can drive screws, drill holes in wood or soft materials, and mix small batches of material. What it cannot do is drill effectively into concrete, brick, or masonry — the material just absorbs the rotation without breaking cleanly.
Most cordless drill/drivers sold today are combination drill/drivers — they can function as a screwdriver (driver mode, with clutch settings to prevent overdriving) or a drill (higher speed, clutch locked out). If you own one tool for general home use, this is it.
What Is an Impact Driver?
An impact driver is frequently confused with a hammer drill — they both make a hammering noise during use. But they work completely differently:
- An impact driver delivers rapid rotational impacts — concussive bursts of torque along the rotation axis. Think of it as tightening a bolt with a wrench, then giving the wrench a sharp smack to break it loose, hundreds of times per minute
- A hammer drill delivers forward-backward percussive action — the bit hammers in and out along the drilling axis, like a miniature jackhammer combined with a drill
An impact driver is purpose-built for driving fasteners — long deck screws, lag bolts, structural screws. Its high torque output drives them in fast without stripping, and the impact mechanism prevents cam-out (where the bit slips out of the screw head). An impact driver should not be used to drill holes in masonry — it does not produce the correct type of force, and using it in masonry will damage the tool and not drill effectively.
What Is a Hammer Drill?
A hammer drill produces both rotation (like a regular drill) and rapid forward-backward percussion along the drill axis — the bit hammers into the material while it spins. This combination breaks up masonry as the bit turns, creating clean holes in brick, concrete block, and similar materials.
Hammer drills are available in two main configurations:
- Combination drill/driver with hammer mode: A standard cordless drill that adds a hammer setting — you flip a switch or rotate a collar and the percussion kicks in. Adequate for occasional, light masonry work — drilling anchor holes in brick, for example. Not designed for heavy or frequent masonry use
- Dedicated hammer drill: A tool built specifically for hammer drilling, with a more robust mechanism designed to sustain the hammering action over extended use
Key hammer drill specification to check: BPM (blows per minute) — how many times per minute the bit hammers. Most combination hammer drills: 25,000-50,000 BPM. This sounds like a lot, but the actual impact energy per blow is low — which is why they are adequate for light masonry but not for heavy-duty concrete.
Rotary Hammer vs Hammer Drill: The Critical Difference
The most important distinction in this whole category. A rotary hammer and a hammer drill both drill into masonry, but they are fundamentally different tools:
| Spec | Hammer Drill | Rotary Hammer (SDS) |
| Chuck | Standard keyed or keyless chuck | SDS chuck (bits lock in with a twist-click) |
| Bit type | Standard masonry bits (round shank) | SDS Plus or SDS Max bits only |
| Impact energy | ~0.5–1.5 joules (low) | ~1–5+ joules (SDS Plus) / 5–20+ joules (SDS Max) |
| Impact mechanism | Cam-driven wobble plate | Electro-pneumatic piston — true air-driven hammer action |
| Hammer-only mode | Usually no | Yes — can chisel without rotating |
| Best for | Occasional light masonry: brick, block | Frequent/heavy masonry: concrete slabs, foundations, rebar |
| Who uses it | DIYers, occasional use | Contractors, tradespeople, serious DIY |
The single biggest performance difference: the impact mechanism. A hammer drill uses a mechanical wobble plate that bumps the bit forward and back — it is fast (high BPM) but delivers relatively low energy per blow. A rotary hammer uses an electro-pneumatic piston system — an actual air-driven hammer that delivers dramatically more impact energy per blow measured in joules. This is why a rotary hammer drills through hard concrete in seconds while a hammer drill struggles with the same material.
What Is SDS? SDS Plus vs SDS Max
SDS stands for Slotted Drive System (from the German Steckdrehsicherung). It is a bit-holding system where the bit shank has slots that lock into the chuck with a twist-click — the bit is securely held but can still slide back and forth slightly to allow the hammering action. This is more effective than a standard keyless chuck, which transfers less energy to the bit.
- SDS Plus: The most common type. Compatible with bits up to about 1 inch in diameter for masonry. Used in mid-range rotary hammers from DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, and Metabo. Tool model names often include ‘SDS Plus’ or ‘SDS+’. Best for most DIY and contractor work
- SDS Max: For heavy-duty professional tools handling large-diameter holes (over 1 inch) in thick concrete and foundations. SDS Max bits are physically larger and not interchangeable with SDS Plus. For demolition work, rebar drilling, and post-setting
SDS Plus bits and SDS Max bits are NOT interchangeable. Before buying bits, confirm which type your tool accepts.
Best Hammer Drills and Rotary Hammers 2026
Based on current testing by Bob Vila (January 2026), SlashGear (February 2026), and Pro Tool Reviews:
Best Overall Cordless Rotary Hammer — DeWalt 20V MAX SDS Plus
The DeWalt 20V MAX SDS Plus rotary hammer (DCH172B / DCH133B series) consistently ranks at or near the top for cordless SDS performance. Bob Vila testing found it drilled clean holes in multiple masonry surfaces with minimal vibration, and the active vibration control system significantly reduces fatigue during extended use. The tool weighs approximately 6.4 pounds without battery — lighter than most SDS Plus competitors. Three modes (drill, hammer drill, hammer-only for chipping) make it versatile beyond pure masonry drilling.
- Impact energy: Up to 2.6 joules (varies by model in the DCH range)
- Modes: Drill, hammer drill, hammer-only
- Battery: 20V MAX system (shared with DeWalt’s entire cordless lineup)
- Price: ~$249 tool-only on Amazon (Bob Vila, SlashGear Feb 2026)
- Best for: Contractors and serious DIYers drilling concrete and masonry regularly
Best Upgrade — Milwaukee M18 FUEL SDS Plus (Model 2912-20)
The Milwaukee M18 FUEL is Bob Vila’s 2026 ‘Best Upgrade’ pick for rotary hammers. Its standout feature is AUTOSTOP Control — an active safety system that detects bit bind-up and instantly stops the motor before the tool can violently kick and injure the operator. This is a meaningful safety feature for anyone who drills overhead or into reinforced concrete where bit binding is more likely. The brushless motor delivers fast drilling speeds, and M18 platform compatibility means the battery works across Milwaukee’s entire tool ecosystem.
- AUTOSTOP Control: detects bind-ups and stops the motor immediately
- Battery: M18 platform (compatible with all Milwaukee M18 tools)
- Best for: Professionals and safety-conscious users; high-frequency masonry work
Best Compact Cordless — Makita 18V LXT SDS Plus (DHR202Z)
The Makita 18V LXT is the lightest and most compact of the main-brand cordless SDS Plus options. Bob Vila testing found it took about 35 seconds to drill a half-inch hole 3 inches deep in concrete — twice as long as the heavier DeWalt and Milwaukee options — but it is significantly lighter and less fatiguing for overhead work or lighter-duty jobs. With over 3,700 Amazon reviews averaging 4.7 stars, it has an exceptional user satisfaction record. Best for DIYers and lighter-duty applications where frequent overhead work matters more than raw drilling speed.
- Amazon price (tool only): ~$285.36 — SlashGear Feb 2026
- 4.7 stars, 3,700+ reviews on Amazon
- Best for: DIYers, lighter masonry, overhead work, battery ecosystem users
Best Corded Option — Bosch SDS Plus Bulldog Xtreme
If you do not need cordless convenience and want maximum consistent power without battery management, the Bosch SDS Plus Bulldog Xtreme is Bob Vila’s 2026 corded pick. Corded tools deliver unlimited runtime and consistent power regardless of battery charge level — advantages that matter for extended continuous masonry work. The Bulldog Xtreme is a well-proven design with a strong track record in both DIY and trade use.
Hammer Drill Bits: What You Need
Hammer drill bit selection depends on which type of tool you have:
For a Standard Hammer Drill (Non-SDS)
Standard hammer drill bits have a round shank and fit in any standard keyless or keyed chuck. Look for bits marked ‘masonry’ — typically made with a tungsten carbide tip. Available in standard fractional sizes (1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, etc.). Quality matters: cheap masonry bits dull fast in concrete. For light brick work, standard carbide masonry bits work fine. For harder concrete, look for bits with more carbide content and aggressive tip geometry.
For a Rotary Hammer (SDS)
SDS Plus bits have a distinctive shank with two slots (and optional two splines) that lock into the SDS chuck. They must be SDS Plus format to fit — regular masonry bits will not work in an SDS chuck. SDS Plus bits are available for:
- Standard hole drilling (2-cutter or 4-cutter carbide tip): For anchor holes, conduit runs, and general masonry drilling
- Core bits: Hollow cylindrical cutters for large-diameter holes (pipe pass-throughs, electrical conduit)
- Chisels: For hammer-only mode (chipping, tile removal, scaling)
When buying SDS Plus bits, look for at least a 4-cutter tip design for faster drilling in hard concrete. Major brands (DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, Hilti) make SDS Plus bits — and any SDS Plus bit will fit any SDS Plus tool regardless of brand.
Which Tool Do You Actually Need?
| Your Job | Tool You Need |
| Driving screws into wood | Impact driver or regular drill/driver |
| Drilling holes in wood, drywall, plastic | Regular drill/driver |
| Driving lag bolts or structural screws | Impact driver |
| Drilling a few holes in brick for a wall anchor | Combination hammer drill (or even a good regular drill with a masonry bit for soft brick) |
| Drilling multiple holes in concrete block or hard brick | Dedicated hammer drill or SDS Plus rotary hammer |
| Drilling holes in poured concrete, slabs, or foundations | SDS Plus rotary hammer — a standard hammer drill will struggle |
| Large-diameter holes (1″+ in concrete) | SDS Plus rotary hammer (or SDS Max for very large holes) |
| Breaking up concrete, removing tile, chipping | SDS rotary hammer in hammer-only mode, or a dedicated demolition hammer/jackhammer |
DeWalt vs Milwaukee vs Makita: Which Brand?
All three major brands produce excellent tools in this category — the differences come down to battery ecosystem, specific features, and price tier rather than fundamental quality gaps:
- DeWalt: Best combination of comfort and performance for most users; active vibration control is a differentiator; good value at the mid-range price point; 20V MAX system is widely compatible across the DeWalt lineup
- Milwaukee: Best safety features (AUTOSTOP Control on M18 FUEL); strongest professional track record; excellent M18 ecosystem; typically priced slightly higher
- Makita: Best compact and lightweight option; excellent for overhead work and lighter applications; slightly less powerful than DeWalt and Milwaukee in the cordless SDS category per Bob Vila testing; strong reputation for reliability
- Bosch: Best corded option; long-established SDS Plus pioneer; strong mid-range value
If you are already in one brand’s battery ecosystem — owning multiple tools from DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Makita — buy that brand’s SDS drill to use your existing batteries. The performance differences are smaller than the convenience of a shared battery platform.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a hammer drill and an impact driver?
A hammer drill drills into masonry by combining rotation with forward-backward percussion along the drill axis. An impact driver drives fasteners by combining rotation with rapid concussive rotational impacts. They do completely different jobs and should not be substituted for each other.
What is the difference between a rotary hammer and a hammer drill?
A rotary hammer uses an electro-pneumatic piston system that delivers true impact energy (measured in joules) for much more powerful masonry drilling. A standard hammer drill uses a mechanical wobble plate that delivers less energy per blow. Rotary hammers use SDS bits; hammer drills use standard masonry bits. For hard concrete, a rotary hammer is significantly more effective.
What are SDS bits and do I need them?
SDS bits have a slotted shank that locks into an SDS chuck. They are only used with SDS rotary hammers — standard hammer drills use regular masonry bits. If you own an SDS Plus rotary hammer, you must use SDS Plus bits. They are widely available and not significantly more expensive than standard masonry bits.
Can I use a hammer drill on concrete?
A hammer drill can drill into concrete, but performance depends on hardness. For soft or medium concrete, a good hammer drill is adequate. For hard poured concrete, thick slabs, or foundation work, an SDS rotary hammer will be dramatically faster and more effective. A hammer drill used heavily on hard concrete will also wear the tool faster than it was designed for.
What is the DeWalt 20V hammer drill?
DeWalt makes several 20V MAX hammer drills and rotary hammers. The most commonly referenced are the DCD999 (flagship hammer drill/driver for wood and soft materials), the DCD998 (with Power Detect technology), and the DCH172B/DCH133B series (SDS Plus rotary hammers for masonry). The rotary hammer models are the ones you want for concrete and brick; the DCD999 series is for general drilling and driving.
Final Thoughts
The confusion between these four tools is understandable — they all make noise, they all drill, and the marketing language is not always consistent. The decision tree is simple: driving fasteners = impact driver. Drilling wood and soft materials = regular drill. Occasional light masonry = hammer drill mode on a combination drill. Regular or heavy masonry — concrete, slabs, foundations — = SDS Plus rotary hammer. The brands are all capable at their price points; if you are in a battery ecosystem already, stay in it. If you are starting fresh for masonry work, the DeWalt 20V MAX SDS Plus is the most consistently recommended starting point for 2026.